Back to the map

North Shore · MA-06

Newburyport

The seaport that built the first U.S. Coast Guard cutter, raised William Lloyd Garrison, and saved its Federalist downtown from the wrecking ball.

~18,00012 sourced moments8 did you know42.813, -70.877

Overview

Newburyport sits where the Merrimack River meets the Atlantic, a small city with an outsized place in the early American story. The Pawtucket and Pentucket peoples fished and farmed this estuary for generations before English colonists arrived in 1635. By the late 1700s the port was the third busiest in Massachusetts, behind only Boston and Salem. Its shipwrights built the first Revenue Cutter for the new federal government, its boys went to sea, and one of those boys, William Lloyd Garrison, grew up to launch the most uncompromising abolitionist paper in the country. A devastating fire in 1811 rebuilt the downtown in brick. A federal urban renewal plan in the 1960s nearly tore that downtown back down. The city fought, the plan changed, and the Federalist brick blocks still stand. Today Newburyport is a working harbor, a National Wildlife Refuge gateway, and one of the most architecturally intact early-republic seaport towns in the United States.

Tram's connection

Newburyport is the coastal anchor of MA-06, fifteen miles east of where Tram lives in Andover. Its long history as a working harbor, a launching pad for civic firsts, and a town that organized to save its own downtown is a model of the kind of local agency this campaign is built on.

The moments

The sourced timeline.

  1. 01

    Before 1635 · Colonial · pre-1763

    Algonquian-speaking peoples lived at the mouth of the Quascacunquen long before English ships arrived.

    Indigenous History

    Long before any English colonist set foot on the marshes of the lower Merrimack, the estuary was home to Algonquian-speaking peoples. The Pennacook-Pawtucket, sometimes called the Pentucket, fished the river runs, harvested salt-marsh grasses, and worked seasonal camps along the Parker and Merrimack rivers.

    The river the English would later rename the Parker was known by the Indigenous name Quascacunquen, a word understood to refer to a waterfall. The territory that became Newbury, Newburyport, and West Newbury was identified in early colonial records under that name before it was renamed in 1635.

    The communities here were part of a broader network that included Pentucket at present-day Haverhill, Agawam at present-day Ipswich, and Wamesit further upriver. Smaller seasonal sites have been documented at Crane Pond Hill, Indian Hill, and along the Merrimack tributaries.

    Figures · Pennacook-Pawtucket, Pentucket

  2. 02

    January 28, 1764 · Colonial · pre-1763

    Newburyport breaks off from agrarian Newbury to become a port city of its own.

    MaritimeCivic Firsts

    English settlers landed at the mouth of the Parker River in 1635 and called their new plantation Newbury. For more than a century the town tried to hold together two very different economies: inland farmers, and a growing waterfront of wharves, shipyards, and merchant families along the Merrimack.

    By the 1750s the maritime end of town had outgrown the rest. On January 28, 1764, the Massachusetts General Court passed an act erecting part of Newbury into a new town under the name Newburyport. It was the smallest town in the colony by land area and one of the most densely settled.

    Within a generation, ships built on the Merrimack carried Newburyport's flag to the West Indies, to Europe, and eventually around Cape Horn. Fish, timber, rum, sugar, and credit moved through its counting houses.

  3. 03

    July 15, 1791 · Revolution · 1763–1815

    The first cutter of the U.S. Revenue Cutter Service slides down the ways at Newburyport.

    MaritimeCivic FirstsInnovation

    Congress authorized the Revenue Cutter Service on August 4, 1790, on Alexander Hamilton's urging, so the new Treasury Department could collect customs duties and run smugglers off the coast. Ten cutters were ordered. The first to be launched was the Massachusetts.

    Built by shipwright William Searle on the Merrimack, the 70-ton schooner went into the water at Newburyport on July 15, 1791. Captain John Foster Williams, a Massachusetts mariner of the Revolution, took command. His crew was four officers, four enlisted men, and two cabin boys.

    The Revenue Cutter Service was folded together with the Life-Saving Service in 1915 to create the modern United States Coast Guard. For that reason the Coast Guard counts the Massachusetts as its first cutter and Newburyport as one of its founding ports.

    “Newburyport is the birthplace of the Coast Guard.”
    Custom House Maritime Museum

    Figures · John Foster Williams, William Searle, Alexander Hamilton

  4. 04

    Late 1700s · Revolution · 1763–1815

    Theophilus Parsons, the Newburyport lawyer who tutored John Quincy Adams, helps shape the early American legal mind.

    EducationCivic Firsts

    Theophilus Parsons trained for the bar in Newburyport in the 1770s and built one of the most influential law offices in the early republic. From 1787 to 1789 he tutored a young John Quincy Adams in law in that office.

    Parsons was a delegate to the Massachusetts constitutional convention of 1779 and one of the twenty-six who drafted the state constitution. As a member of the so-called Essex Junto he is generally credited as the author of The Essex Result, the rebuttal that helped sink an earlier draft.

    He moved to Boston in 1800 and was named Chief Justice of the Supreme Judicial Court of Massachusetts in 1806, serving until his death in 1813. The Smithsonian holds a contemporary portrait of him.

    Figures · Theophilus Parsons, John Quincy Adams

  5. 05

    December 10, 1805 · Revolution · 1763–1815

    William Lloyd Garrison is born in a wood-frame house on School Street.

    AbolitionCivic Firsts

    William Lloyd Garrison was born on December 10, 1805, in a wood-frame house at what is now 3-5 School Street, just up the hill from the harbor. His father, a sailor, abandoned the family a few years later.

    At thirteen, Garrison apprenticed at the Newburyport Herald, the local semi-weekly, under publisher Ephraim W. Allen. He learned the printer's trade from the type case up and was foreman before he was twenty. He began writing under the pseudonym Aristides.

    He left Newburyport for Boston, where in 1831 he founded The Liberator. By thirty-three he was the most denounced editor in America. The Newburyport house still stands. A plaque placed by the City Improvement Society in 1905 marks the spot.

    “I am in earnest, I will not equivocate, I will not excuse, I will not retreat a single inch, and I will be heard.”
    William Lloyd Garrison, The Liberator, 1831

    Figures · William Lloyd Garrison, Ephraim W. Allen

  6. 06

    1810 · Revolution · 1763–1815

    At its peak, Newburyport's merchant fleet ranks with the largest in Massachusetts.

    MaritimeLabor

    By 1810 Newburyport merchants owned 41 ships, 49 brigs, and 50 schooners. Twenty-one deepwater sailing ships for foreign trade were built on the Merrimack in that year alone.

    The port was the seat of an extensive trade with the East Indies and the China coast, and its commerce on the Merrimack rivaled that of Boston and Salem. The Custom House on Water Street, designed in 1835 by Robert Mills (the architect of the Washington Monument and the U.S. Treasury Building), is the surviving federal monument to that era.

    At the height of the sailing-ship economy, more tonnage of ships was built on the narrow North End shipyards of Newburyport than at any other point on the Atlantic coast, square mile for square mile.

  7. 07

    May 31, 1811 · Revolution · 1763–1815

    The Great Fire of 1811 burns the wooden downtown to the ground. The town rebuilds in brick.

    InnovationCivic Firsts

    Around 9:30 on the night of May 31, 1811, a fire broke out in a stable near the center of town. By morning roughly 250 wooden structures had burned and some 16.5 acres at the heart of Newburyport lay in charred ruins.

    Within months the town petitioned the legislature for what came to be called the Brick Act of 1811, requiring buildings over ten feet to be built of brick or stone, with masonry firewalls between sections. The act applied to the burned district between Market and Federal streets.

    Out of the rubble came Market Square and State Street as they look today: a unified Federalist brick downtown of merchant blocks, counting houses, and shops. It is often described as the first coordinated urban replanning effort in the country outside Washington, D.C.

  8. 08

    January 1, 1831 · Industrial · 1815–1880

    The Newburyport apprentice launches The Liberator and demands immediate, uncompromising abolition.

    AbolitionCivic Firsts

    On January 1, 1831, Garrison printed the first issue of The Liberator in a Boston attic. He set the type himself, the way he had learned to in Newburyport.

    He refused gradualism. He refused colonization. He refused to be polite. The masthead would run for thirty-five years, ending only when the Thirteenth Amendment abolished slavery in 1865.

    Within a year of the first issue, Garrison helped organize the New England Anti-Slavery Society in Boston, in 1832. The American Anti-Slavery Society followed in 1833. Wendell Phillips, who would become one of the movement's most powerful orators, joined the Massachusetts Anti-Slavery Society after witnessing a Boston mob drag Garrison through the streets in 1835.

    Figures · William Lloyd Garrison, Wendell Phillips

  9. 09

    July 3, 1844 · Industrial · 1815–1880

    Caleb Cushing of Newburyport signs the first U.S. treaty with China.

    MaritimeCivic Firsts

    Caleb Cushing grew up in Newburyport, practiced law there, and represented the district in Congress. In 1843 President John Tyler named him the first U.S. commissioner to China, sent in part to keep American merchants from being squeezed out of the China trade by British interests after the First Opium War.

    On July 3, 1844, Cushing and the Qing commissioner Qiying signed the Treaty of Wangxia at the Kun Iam Temple near Macao. The treaty opened five Chinese ports to American merchants, granted most-favored-nation status, and codified the principle of extraterritoriality for American citizens in China.

    It was the first treaty between the United States and China. Newburyport ships had already been calling at Canton for decades; Cushing's mission made the trade a formal matter of state.

    Figures · Caleb Cushing

  10. 10

    May 7, 1884 · Progressive Era · 1880–1920

    Anna Jaques endows a hospital for the seaport. It opens with thirteen beds.

    Women's RightsCivic Firsts

    In 1883 a Newburyport woman named Anna Jaques asked her physician, Dr. F.A. Howe, how she might best spend her money to help her town. He told her Newburyport needed a hospital.

    She gave $25,000, a sum large enough to put up a building at the corner of Broad and Monroe streets. On May 7, 1884, the first patient was admitted to Anna Jaques Hospital. It opened with thirteen beds.

    Jaques died in January 1885, less than a year after the hospital took her name. The Georgian Revival building at 25 Highland Avenue opened in 1904 and still serves the community more than 140 years later.

    Figures · Anna Jaques, Dr. F.A. Howe

  11. 11

    1942 · Modern · 1920–1965

    Plum Island becomes a federal wildlife refuge on the Atlantic Flyway.

    EnvironmentCivic Firsts

    In 1942 the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service established the Parker River National Wildlife Refuge, taking in most of Plum Island and the marshes south of Newburyport Harbor.

    The refuge runs to 4,662 acres of beach, dune, salt marsh, freshwater marsh, swamp, and mudflat. It sits squarely on the Atlantic Flyway and is a critical stopover for migratory shorebirds, waterfowl, and songbirds.

    More than 300 species of birds have been recorded there, along with piping plovers, harbor seals, and the salt-marsh fauna that the Pawtucket peoples once harvested. The refuge is one of the most-visited in the National Wildlife Refuge System.

  12. 12

    1971 · Contemporary · 1965–today

    Newburyport saves its Federalist downtown from federal urban renewal.

    Civic FirstsInnovation

    In the early 1960s, Newburyport's downtown looked finished. Mills had left, lower State Street was boarded up, and the federal Urban Renewal program was preparing a plan to clear most of the Federalist brick district and replace it with a strip mall and surface parking.

    Local preservationists, organized through the Historical Society of Old Newbury, fought back. They proposed restoring the existing brick blocks instead of demolishing them. After a sustained campaign, HUD agreed to a then-unprecedented amendment to the urban renewal contract: federal funds could be used to rehabilitate the historic downtown rather than raze it.

    Market Square was listed on the National Register of Historic Places in 1971. The wider Newburyport Historic District followed in 1984. The episode is taught as one of the first uses of historic preservation principles in a federal urban renewal project, and one of the most successful downtown rescues in the country.

    “It was the first time HUD let a city renew an urban-renewal district by preserving it.”
    Newburyport Preservation Trust

Did you know

Surprising facts about Newburyport.

  • Maritime

    The first cutter of the U.S. Coast Guard, the Massachusetts, was built and launched on the Merrimack at Newburyport in 1791.

    The Revenue Cutter Service ordered ten cutters in 1790. The Massachusetts was the first to enter active service. The Coast Guard considers Newburyport one of its founding ports.

    Source · National Archives
  • Abolition

    William Lloyd Garrison was setting type at the Newburyport Herald at thirteen. He would set The Liberator's editorials in type directly from his head, without writing them out first.

    Source · National Park Service
  • Innovation

    After a single 1811 fire destroyed 250 buildings, Newburyport rewrote its building code to require brick. The result is one of the most intact Federalist downtowns in America.

    Source · Boston Globe
  • Civic Firsts

    The first U.S. treaty with China was negotiated by a Newburyport lawyer, Caleb Cushing, in 1844.

    Cushing signed the Treaty of Wangxia at the Kun Iam Temple near Macao on July 3, 1844, opening five Chinese ports to American merchants.

    Source · U.S. Department of State, Office of the Historian
  • Maritime

    Newburyport's 1835 Custom House was designed by Robert Mills, the same architect who designed the Washington Monument and the U.S. Treasury Building.

    Source · Custom House Maritime Museum
  • Environment

    Parker River National Wildlife Refuge on Plum Island has logged more than 300 bird species and is one of the busiest refuges in the country.

    Source · U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service
  • Women's Rights

    Newburyport's hospital was founded in 1884 by a single woman, Anna Jaques, who asked her doctor what the town needed and then paid for it.

    Source · Anna Jaques Hospital
  • Civic Firsts

    In the late 1960s, HUD's urban-renewal plan condemned most of Newburyport's downtown. The city fought back, HUD reversed the plan, and the brick blocks still stand.

    Market Square was placed on the National Register of Historic Places in 1971. It is one of the first uses of federal urban-renewal funds for historic preservation rather than demolition.

    Source · Newburyport Preservation Trust

The people

Figures from Newburyport.

  • William Lloyd Garrison

    Industrial · 1815–1880

    Born in Newburyport in 1805. Apprenticed at the Newburyport Herald at thirteen. Founded The Liberator in 1831 and led the radical wing of American abolition for thirty-five years.

  • Caleb Cushing

    Industrial · 1815–1880

    Newburyport lawyer and congressman. First U.S. commissioner to China. Signed the 1844 Treaty of Wangxia, the first treaty between the United States and China.

  • Theophilus Parsons

    Revolution · 1763–1815

    Newburyport lawyer, drafter of the Massachusetts Constitution of 1780, tutor of John Quincy Adams, and Chief Justice of the Massachusetts Supreme Judicial Court from 1806 to 1813.

  • Anna Jaques

    Progressive Era · 1880–1920

    Newburyport benefactor who in 1884 endowed and built the city's first hospital. It opened with thirteen beds and still bears her name.

  • John Foster Williams

    Revolution · 1763–1815

    Massachusetts mariner and Revolutionary veteran. First master of the Revenue Cutter Massachusetts, launched at Newburyport in 1791.